New York Fashion Week is a special time complete with highs and lows, goods and bads and wrongs and rights. When the week is over, we are left with fresh, new fashion for the upcoming season. Every day of NYFW 2017 was arguably increasingly different than the next. Here are the brands that made an impact:
This year, La Perla, under creative director Julia Haart, brought lingerie to life in an English manor garden.
“I chose English gardens because they are more of a riot compared to, say, manicured French gardens. That’s what I am thinking about: I don’t like people telling me what to do or where to go. I want to wear what I want when I want, how I want. It’s all about the freedom,” Haart said in an interview with Vogue.
Haart’s position on freedom and gardens translated to the runway. The crowd sat near the runway facing an elaborate set of a house. The models were spread about the house and dressed appropriately for the room they were in. Each model walked out of their room down a flight of stairs onto the runway.
“I am creating this specialized world where ready-to-wear and lingerie meld together—our clothes come in dress sizes, but also cup sizes,” Haart said.
The outfits and undies were beautiful, but even more beautiful was the message creative director Julia Haart instilled in her brand. Karen Hua, a writer for Forbes described Haart’s collection as, “an artistic anthem to female empowerment.”
Erin Fetherston can be described as a vintage collector and enthusiast in creative opposition of today’s obsession with minimalism. Any simpler description of Fetherston just would not do. She worked hard this year to create an eclectic collection, so an eclectic introduction she deserves.
Fetherston was inspired by her own vintage clothing collection stockpiled with treasures from thrift stores. She wanted her designs to stand out and evoke nostalgia during a time when she believes fashion is moving away from detail-oriented design.
Fetherston’s use of a thin silk scarf wrapped closely around most of the models’ necks demanded a sense of elegance amidst the bohemian laid back vibe of the collection.
In a summary of Fetherston’s collection, Alessandra Turra, a writer for Women’s Wear Daily wrote, “Erin Fetherston took a trip around the world for fall, a trek through different cultures and inspirations that were then mixed and matched in a chic, feminine collection.”
And a chic, feminine collection it was.
Cushnie Et Ochs
Longing for a collection full of minimal details? No problem. Cushnie et Ochs delivered a breathtaking collection living up to their promise of bold sensuality meeting minimalist sophistication.
Inspired by the broken glass sculptures of artist Robert Smithson, designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs created a collection to reflect feminine beauty. Each garment was brought to life with the use of luxe fabric and asymmetrical lines.
“In a nod to Smithson, the designers used tones that reflected his earthworks and sculptures, such as a shade of citrine on a crepe long-sleeved midi dress and midnight blue on the short-sleeved mock neck top with fractured lacing,” said Brooke Bobb, a writer for Vogue.
Smithson, a minimalist himself once said, “I am for an art that takes into account the direct effect of the elements as they exist from day to day apart from representation.”
Without question, Cushnie and Ochs created a collection to embody the powers of nature and femininity.
Jonathan Simkhai came at 2017 in a very big way. Seriously, how did he produce so many amazing designs in just one year? With his resort, spring/summer, pre-fall and fall/winter collections, Simkhai redefined the classy cool girl.
Both his resort and spring/summer collections were made mostly from lightweight, feminine fabrics. His pre-fall and fall/winter collections were made from a more structured material, but all of his amazing details displayed resounding femininity.
Not only does Simkhai seek to embolden women, he is also “Feminist AF.”
“Before the show, he left his ‘Feminist AF’ tees lining the front row benches with a note explaining that the company stood with the CFDA’s efforts this Fashion Week and that for every seat in the house, $5 would be donated to Planned Parenthood,” said Brooke Bobb, a writer for Vogue.
Trippy Hippie and creative director of Libertine, Johnson Hartig did crazy in an innovative way at NYFW. His collection featured wild prints and fabrics. Literally.
Three models were dressed head to toe in cheetah print. Models wore hoodies with tailored overcoats, midi socks and sneakers. Tattoo looking patchwork flooded almost every garment and accessory, and Hartig’s use of rhinestone bedazzling was abundant. Seriously, he put that on everything (like a Frank’s RedHot commercial).
Hartig has described himself as “all jazzed up,” and this season’s Libertine collection does not fall short of that.
Every designer created in their own way and carries a message within their clothes. As consumers, we can only share their messages and be inspired by their creativity.