Being a fashion student at Kent, I am constantly looking at and researching some of the best designers and companies in the business. Whether that be for school or just personal interest, there are a number of instances where certain designers stick out to me, and I can’t seem to look away. One fashion house in particular that I have been loving for a while is Maison Schiaparelli.

Elsa Schiaparelli first founded the haute couture house in 1927 in Paris, France. She gained initial recognition with her knitwear line featuring a trompe l’oeil sweater, which was eventually featured in Vogue. The original house shut down in 1954 due to fashion and culture shifts after World War II, as it became less popular compared to its competitors. The label was then repurchased in 2007, however, the brand didn’t really take off until Daniel Roseberry was named creative director in 2019. 

Roseberry showed his first collection in July of 2019, after being appointed to the position in April of that same year. He debuted at Paris Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2019/2020, with pieces inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy and nature. He became well known in the fashion industry, due to the revival of the Schiaparelli name with a modern touch and his ability to blend haute couture with pop culture.

What really got me interested in the brand was Roseberry’s Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2025. Presented on a runway adorned with golden pools of hammered metal, the collection was titled “Icarus Schiaparelli,” after the Greek myth of Icarus. Icarus was the overly confident son of a craftsman who flew too close to the sun with his wax-coated wings which melted and he promptly plunged into his doom. 

The idea of basing the collection on this story wasn’t related to his fall, but to the attempt itself. Being able to push yourself to be the best you can be, even if you fail in the end. The house’s signature black and gold paid tribute to Elsa, however, the looks soon expanded toward a different aesthetic that the brand had never seen before. Everything was based on the corset, particularly exposed corsets that he was able to make his own, slipping out of dresses, boned waists on shows and long drapes.

Although Schiaparelli has grown exponentially since the ‘30s, it is still considered a lesser-known designer brand compared to the big guns like Chanel, Dior and Gucci. However, I think that keeping the brand smaller is a big part of its charm and why people become so enchanted by it. People aren’t necessarily enthralled by the brand name, but the garments are able to stand alone without a major reputation behind the label.